Graduate Fashion Week - Hansel Abakah-Phillips Interview

Photo Credits: Lou Waldock-Biggs , Ruby Branch and Ray Alice

We got the opportunity to attend Graduate Fashion Week presented by F&F. The event was held at Truman Brewery by the Graduate Fashion Foundation. It’s a fashion students dream to be included, as there are a limited amount of spaces per university. For some students the main event was creating a collection for the Graduate Fashion Week Catwalk. Along side an awards ceremony for all the fashion disciplines and talks from industry professionals. It’s an opportunity for multidisciplinary fashion students to network and showcase their designs and look-books in front of the fashion industry and fashion enthusiasts.

We got the opportunity to catch up with an incredible fashion designer Hansel Abakah -Phillips who graduated from Bath Spa University. He was also up for two nominations the Culture & Heritage Award and the Hilary Alexander Sustainable Trailblazer of which he was highly commendable. His collection was called ‘The Second Coming’.

Hansel quotes:

‘The collection explores covenant, spirituality and biblical storytelling through the lens of haute couture craftsmanship, combining traditional Ghanian techniques with drape construction and hand finished detailing.

The work reflects my interest in fashion as narrative - using silhouette, texture, and craftsmanship to communicate emotion, ritual and identity.

Each garment tells a poetic story of a relationship between the bride and groom, directly referencing Ezekiel 16 form the Bible. The chapter tells a compelling narrative showing us the power of convenant keeping throughout times of turmoil’.

1. So tell me, how did it all begin? What sparked your passion for fashion?

My passion for fashion truly sparked during secondary school where my friends and I would talk about all the latest sneaker drops. As we started to have jobs, it went from just talking about them to now buying and reselling shoes that were on high demand. Through this I began to learn more about the designers behind the brands which contributed heavily to the spark that ignited my passion for fashion.

Another key component which coincided, was five years ago during lockdown, where I watched my mum create face masks out of African printed fabrics. I was intrigued and needed to find a way to spend time with my mum, so I asked her to teach me how to make them.  The final component was being in a place of solitude where God was able to truly connect with me and give me purpose and fuel to keep going.

2. What is the core DNA or aesthetic of your brand, and how do you want people to feel when they wear your pieces? 

The foundation of the brand is built on the access to spiritual concepts and realms through the lens of christianity then translating into the physical products at a high level of execution. When my clothes are worn by others, I want them to feel covered. To feel protected and empowered. I want my clothes to provoke deeper thought.

3. Walk me through your design process. Where do you find your primary inspiration for your new collection?

It all came from reading Ezekiel 16, which is a book and verse in the bible. This chapter gave me everything I needed from the concept, fabrics, silhouette and feel. Looking at the world today reinforced the passage's importance in our current society.

4. Congratulations are in order, we can see that you have been nominated for two awards. Culture & Heritage Award and the Hilary Alexander Sustainable Trailblazer Award. Firstly how do you feel about being nominated? And for people that aren’t aware could you talk more about what these awards mean?

Thank you so much. It feels amazing to be selected for such prestigious awards, especially because a couple years ago I could barely draw! So to be nominated does not define me, but it is a testament to how far I have come. Having the opportunity to present my work in front of the industry judge panel, and being able to really impress them.

The awards are both put in place by the Graduate Fashion Foundation. The Culture and Heritage award’s work must provide a refreshing and innovative direction that may address race, ethnicity, and/or culture through lived experiences of under-represented people and the following:

• Celebrates the influence of culture and heritage on a student’s work

• Explores historical, political, contextual knowledge and understanding

• Protests against inequality and injustice

The Hilary Alexander Sustainable Trailblazer Award was to show evidence of a focus on and understanding of sustainability

• A clear demonstration of how the project/product’s environmental impact, and/or be beneficial to the environment, culture or community from which the materials are sourced.

• Experimentation in sustainable materials, texture and surface decoration.

5. Sustainability is a massive conversation in fashion. How does your brand approach ethical production and material sourcing?

Sustainability has unfortunately become a very misused statement, however I embed it within all of my practices, from how I cut the fabric to reduce waste, using natural dyeing processes to sourcing unused fabrics and garments. I am also looking into sustainability from the viewpoint of creating economic prosperity to sustain tradition which is what I have done with my latest collection. That, I am extremely proud of.

6. As an emerging designer, what has been the biggest challenge you’ve faced breaking into the industry so far?

The biggest challenge being an emerging designer, has been cash flow for sure. Due to my practices and highly skilled craftsman process, it makes production costs very expensive very quickly therefore, things may take longer to produce, and more expensive to purchase. However, I am enjoying the phase in my life where I am having to come up with new solutions to increase cash flow so that I can make the collections at a quicker rate.

7. Is there a dream designer you would love to collaborate with and why?

Wow. What a question. There are quite a few designers that I would love to collaborate with, but one in particular would Glenn Martens. His ability to experiment with fabrications and silhouette is very impressive. I believe that we would create an insane collection together.

8. If you could dress any public figure or celebrity in one of your custom designs, who would it be and why?

Hmm. If I could dress any public figure or celebrity, it would be Tems for sure. The way she makes music is so spiritual. I know that clothes that I would make for her would resonate on a whole new level.

9. Are there any other creative fields (e.g., architecture, interior design, film) that you’d love to collaborate with or branch into?

Oh yes, definitely. To be honest the three examples you mentioned are all areas I would like to branch into. But music is a space in which I would really want to delve into. To produce albums. To bring people into the right rooms and to hold such immersive events which will take the audience to another realm.

10. What have you got planned for the not-so-distant future?

I have a couple community events and workshops in the works. I am looking towards launching a new line towards autumn, which I am very excited to show everyone. But most importantly, I am learning how to have fun again. To experience new things, travel, and to deepen my relationship with Christ for real.

About the Graduate Fashion Foundation:

Graduate Fashion Foundation empowers the next generation of fashion professionals through education, mentorship and industry collaboration, providing showcasing opportunities, award recognition and hands on experience. We exist to support the future of the industry, through new ideas, fresh perspectives and world leading talent.

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